(Almost) Wordless Wednesday: On Gluttony, Part 2: In Which I Leave Nothing in Vienna Uneaten, Particularly Tiny Sandwiches

Good Morning! I am STILL hungry

For this installment of almost Wordless Wednesday, I complete my two-part tale of gluttony and feasting across the glorious city of Vienna. On our second (and last) full day here - and our last full day of vacation - we were determined to leave nothing uneaten.

Particularly tiny sandwiches.

On Gluttony, Part 1: Schnitzel, Schinken, & Zuppe in Vienna for a (Practically) Wordless Wednesday

I'm back, and I'm hungry!

On our trip to Europe last spring - the bulk of which was spent in Prague and Krakow - Poppa Trix and I contrived to spend the last two days in one of our favorite places on earth: Vienna. This was partly to see Mother-in-Law Trix, who lives there, and partly to eat. And eat. Oh, and drink. And then, when we were tired of that  ... eat. I'll wager that in two days we ate more than most normal people do in a week. In fact, we ate so much in 48 hours that I have divided our gastronomic exploits into two posts, each covering a 24-hour period.

And so, without further ado, please enjoy this not-quite-wordless-Wednesday post outlining our gluttony on day one.

Stary Kleparz Market: A Total Polish Shopping Experience in Krakow's Old Town for Wordless Wednesday

That's a pretty long title for Wordless Wednesday, isn't it? Perhaps I should have called it "Mostly Wordless Wednesday." Or "Fewer Words Wednesday." Oh well, I have been called many things, but silent isn't usually one of them.

Let me just say I wouldn't want to offend the fabulous Trevor's discriminating sensibilities and call the Stary Kleparz Market in Krakow the best market ever, or claim that there's nothing like it in the States.  (Actually, Trevor,  I think Vienna's Naschmarkt is the best market ever, anywhere, hands down. And there really isn't one like it in the States! But I digress.)  I will say, however,  that Stary Kleparz is pretty awesome (as well as fun to say) and if you think the only produce you can get in Poland is cabbage, well,  your eyes will certainly be opened.

Oh, and there's meat. Lots and lots of meat. And people watching. And other things too!

Drat, I am going to be quiet now. ... though I can't promise you there won't be any captions. Shhhhh ... it's Wordless Wednesday.

Borscht, Beast, & Booze: The Many Culinary Faces of Krakow, Poland (And the Wine Giveaway Winner)

A piping hot bowl of borscht from a bar mlezny (milk bar)

Wild boar tenderloins in forest sauce from Pod Baranem

Miodowka honey vodka at Wódka Cafe Bar

When it comes to food, most people tend to associate Poland with two main things: kielbasa and pierogies. There's a lot more to Polish cuisine, as I learned firsthand on my trip, but these two items are undoubtedly ubiquitous staples.  I've already talked about the many excellent sausages to be had in Krakow, and Poppa Trix and I feasted on (more than) our fair share of pierogies on our trip. My favorites came from a cute place called Pierożki u Vincenta. This bright spot had a Vincent Van Gogh theme:

The Street Meats of Krakow & Prague: A Tale of Many Sausages, Things on Buns, Polish Pizza, and the Mysterious Kielbasa Man

A Wenceslas Square wiener

Zapiekanka at Plac Nowy in Krakow

Prague sausage!

If you've been following my posts chronicling my recent trip to Eastern and Central Europe, you'll have figured out by now that Poppa Trix and I can eat like nobody's business. From huge bowls of pho to piles of raw meat to kilos of ham to multi-course chef's menus, we are no wilting flowers when it comes to tasting new things and experiencing other cultures through food.

North Vietnamese Cuisine (and a Little Taste of Italy) in Prague

A fragrant bowl of pho at the Sapa market complex in Prague ...

... and a garlicky bowl of al dente pasta with shrimp at Una Bella Canzone in a quiet residential section of the city

Prague is city that is filled with surprises - at least if you go expecting to find only sausages, ham,  and beer, though there is plenty of that to be had. Many residents we spoke with, for example, were unaware that some of the best Vietnamese food you'll ever find anywhere was just a short metro and bus ride away from the touristy center of town. 

Chef's Table at La Degustation Boheme Bourgeoise in Prague: A Tale of Seven Courses (with wine pairings), Seven Amuses Bouches, and Two Very Full Bellies

The view into the kitchen from the Chef's Table (Poppa sneaked this photo of me as I intently watched the chefs at work)

All dressed up and ready to eat. and eat ... and eat ... and eat

So far in my tales of Prague, I've talked about the traditional Czech cuisine I sampled (lots of sausages and ham!) and my adventures consuming copious amounts of beer and raw meat at a U Zlateho Tygra, (At The Golden Tiger). But now it's time for something completely different: an incredible multiple course feast of haute cuisine at La Degustation Boheme Bourgeoise.

Those of you who watch Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations may already be familiar with this place. Here, each night Chef Oldřich Sahajdak presents a seven-course gourmet tasting menu based on Czech recipes from an 1880s cookbook, proving wrong anyone who says that Czech food and gourmet are incompatible terms. In addition, an alternate chef's  tasting menu, inspired by more modern international cuisine, is also on offer. Nearly every course comes with its own amuse bouche, making for a long, leisurely, and absolutely unforgettable experience.  Did I mention the menu changes daily?

Beer & Adventure at an Old Scool Prague Pub: U Zlatého Tygra (At the Golden Tiger)

The Real Deal:

There are countless reasons to visit U Zlatého Tygra (the Golden Tiger) in Prague's Old Town. For beer lovers, there's the unpasteurized Pilsner Urquell, which connoisseurs consider  to be among the best in the world. Literati love the fact that Czech novelist Bohumil Hrabel,  one of the great writers of the 20th century, was a regular here until his death in 1997. History buffs can imagine that they are sitting at the same table occupied by then-president Bill Clinton and former Czech leader Vaclav Havel when Havel brought Clinton here  to show him what life in Prague was all about.

And for those (like me) who eschew tour groups and live to explore and discover things on their own, it is nice to know that a few authentic, history-soaked Czech drinking establishments like this still exist, just off of one of the most touristy thoroughfares in Europe. This is not to say that tourists don't eat and drink at the Golden Tiger; they do, but no concessions are made for them. There is no gift shop. The experience is not pre-packaged.  The staff is not all smiles and condescension - in fact, they can be more than a bit cranky. Seating preference is in this order: regulars, Czechs, and everyone else. If you fall into the category of "everyone else" and you want to get a seat at night (rather than in the afternoon) you may wait for a very long time - if you even get to sit.

Eating Prague, Part 1: Traditional Czech Cuisine (and the Cookbook Giveaway Winner!)

Hanging out in a tower in the Old City Hall in Prague's Old Town Square ... and thinking about all the good food down there. The smells of smoky cooked pork were actually wafting up from below. For real.

While Prague is undoubtedly a top tier sightseeing, cultural, and historical destination for many travelers,  it is not generally mentioned along with the other great culinary meccas of Europe. I think that's a shame. Many people assume that traditional Czech cuisine is an unvarying parade of hearty and heavy variations on the same theme of big piles of meat.  But the traditional Czech cuisine I had in Prague was anything but monotonous, as its unfounded reputation would seem to imply.  Is the food hearty? Sure. Meaty? Often! Heavy? Sometimes. But unvarying or boring? Not at all, as you'll see here. (Of course, Poppa and I didn't only eat traditional Czech food. We had some very surprising meals, as you'll see in future posts.)