Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Tunisian Tuna Tart; Plus, I Survived Day Two of Culinary School

 


Welcome to the first of several posts featuring an ingredient I am obsessed with right now: preserved lemon.  I am at a loss to explain to you how mere lemons and salt have the power to transform an ordinary dish into something absolutely thought-provoking, but somehow they do.

Often found in Moroccan and Tunisian dishes, these little flavor bombs are the kind of ingredient that make people scratch their heads and try (in vain)  to figure out what in the world you did.  I swear to you, it's magic! Here I've used preserved lemon to turn a humble tuna tart into something that deserves to be written - and spoken - with capital letters: Tuna. Tart.

I've been using these guys in everything lately, but I thought I'd post the tart first because I've got crust on the brain. Pie crust that is - today in class we made flaky pie dough and pate sucree, or sugar dough. Even though I am bone tired, I am minding this whole being-one-of-the-oldest-people-in-class thing less and less.  There's zero social pressure - I'm not wasting my time worrying about whether or not the scrawny kid to my right thinks I look dorky in my chef's hat, or giggling with a girlfriend over our exploits, past or planned,  while Chef is demonstrating the right rolling technique.

And thankfully, unlike my very young - albeit sweet -  lab partner today, I don't have to fret over the fact that I couldn't get my acrylic nails off in time for class.  You read that right. After watching her sadly struggle with her dough and the sticky, messy, crumbling Frankencrust she was cobbling together, I ended up helping her out and crimping the edges of her pie for her.

"I guess it must be my nails that's making this so hard," she said. Um ... you think?  (Don't get the wrong idea, I'm no saint: It's my fervent and selfish wish that someone's around to take pity on me when it's time to decorate cakes.)

But back to this tart. The crust is simplicity itself: I used the same combo of olive oil, salt, water, and whole wheat, spelt, and AP flours that I used in my tuna tomato tart, a recipe I adapted from Citron et Vanille's gorgeous blog. For seasoning, I just used 1 T of black sesame seeds in the dough. The key to a good crust here is to not overwork the dough or it will get tough.

For the filling, mix together:
1 medium chopped onion
2 cans of oil packed tuna, such as Cento, drained
1-2 T Dijon mustard (to taste)
3-4 springs of thyme
1-2 T chopped preserved lemon, seeds removed (I bought my preserved lemons at Whole Foods, but you can also make your own.)
Pepper & Salt, to taste
*Very Important: Don't add the salt until you've tasted the mixture, as the lemons are very salty, even if you rinse them.

Next beat together 2 eggs, 1/3 cup of cream, and 1/3 cup milk, and mix this with your tuna mixture. Spread evenly over your tart, and top with some oil-cured black olives and a bit more pepper and thyme:
 
I'm not going to lie to you, I didn't think it looked too appetizing at this point, and I was afriad that perhaps I had pushed my magic lemons farther than they were willing, or able,  to go. But I shouldn't have worried.  After 35-40 minutes in a 375 degree oven, yucky miraculously emerged as yummy:
 
To check that your tart has set, make sure that when you tap the center with your finger, the middle is firm, not mushy and jiggly. The preserved lemon subtly scents the entire dish, offering surprising bursts of bright tangy zing that go perfectly with the earthy thyme, olives,  and tuna. Served with a glass of wine and a nice salad, this is the kind of satisfying, flavor-packed meal that makes you forget it's not really that fattening at all. And given what I'll be baking and tasting this semester, that's a very good thing.









28 comments:

  1. Oh! Man this looks sensational....now that your in this school after looking at how perfect this is....I am not going to be posting any tarts this one is perfect and I have been on a tuna kick! So this is a must try for me. No way will it look this good!! GREAT JOB love it you are so talented in presentation I envy you so much :)

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  2. this dish looks truly amazing! I haven't ever heard of preserved lemons, so I think I should pick up some at Whole Foods (when I am allowed back after my last spree). Your pictures are also beautiful.

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  3. Wow, this tart is amazing. I haven't had this kind of tart before. I had tuna sandwich, but not a tart. And the preserved lemons really does elevate everything. Love the photos. They're getting better and better.

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  4. I think I shall enjoy reading about your exploits as you continue with pastry school...and what a great looking Tuna Tart!

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  5. Definitely gonna try this one! And, frankly, I don't care if it's fattening -- bring it on. Keep us posted.

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  6. I love this tart! It looks so professional, just beautiful! Plus I have some cans of tuna sitting around that just need to be consumed asap! I think this tart will do the trick!

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  7. I love savory tarts and what a coincidence! I'm "brewing" my first preserved lemons right now!! And I have never even tried them, but I always felt curious about them. Your post makes me anxious for the salting time to end. And besides, I have a batch of flaky dough frozen... what do you think?? ;-)
    BTW, your tart sounds fantastic, I love tuna too, so this is a winner for me.

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  8. What an amazing tart! I love preserved lemons as well. Have a big jar made from the lemons in my backyard. YUMmMmmmMm

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  9. Your story made me smile... but then I haven't had nails in years.You should be so proud of yourself for doing this class...you go Trix! Love those preserved lemons... you are in good company because Eric Ripert is crazy about them too! I found them through the genius of Paula Wolfert... nothing better than her Moroccan chicken when you're sick! Great post, I can't wait to add this to my preserved lemon file!!!

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  10. can wait to try to make the preserved lemons, never had them before. Your tart looks incredible, I may try to copy, but can assure you, mine will not look like yours!

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  11. I love hearing about your culinary school adventures! :) And I can't wait to see all of the preserved lemon recipes!

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  12. simply beautiful ... wow, impressive - you will be head of the class for sure...I always overwork the dough, can't help it...

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  13. I've been craving tuna lately, and this looks delicious! I love the olives on top.

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  14. I just had Tunisian chicken for dinner! So it's the preserved lemons!!! I couldn't put a finger on what that special ingredient was. Thank YOU, Trix! The Tuna Tart is gorgeous. :) You have a magic touch, turning yucky to yummy, altho I didn't think it was yucky in the first place. LOL at the acrylic nails!!!! *chuckle*

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  15. beautiful tart! hmm preserved lemons!!I must try...ive heard how good it is but have yet to try.beautiful photos !!

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  16. This is a magnificent tart! I enjoy the wonderful flavors of preserved lemons.

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  17. Sooo very thrilled to hear about the culinary classes! Cannot WAIT to read about the exploits and more "scary acrylic nails"--ew. You go girl! Well, the tart is beautiful, and I am sure could be made vegan--but first I'd have to get a tart pan! (Tarts intimidate me, okay?!)

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  18. How sweet of you to help out your 'nine inch nail' classmate ;-)
    I've often contemplated making preserved lemons and now feel like I should because you say they can go into a lot of dishes.
    I'm looking forward to more culinary class stories and awesome recipes. ~Mary

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  19. It will probably take one of her nails falling off and being unintentionally served in one of her pies for her to finally figure out that fake nails and kitchens don't really go together. She's lucky to have you as a partner!

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  20. Love this! I can't wait to make it for my boyfriends Moroccan family.
    You Rock!

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  21. This looks delicious and I love the presentation!

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  22. Great looking tart!! I love it when the filling is that thick. It's hard to cook with long nails for sure, and maybe the acrylic ones even worse! Congrats on your tart!

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  23. wowow!! Paula showed me how to make themlast year..they're so good. the tart looks beautiful

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  24. Thats sheer perfection!!!! So glad its going so well! I would be so proud of myself if I ever made something like that lol

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  25. I would love to see the whole menu that you devised! Or maybe you are waiting to open your restaurant? (in reference to your comment on lentil kibbé)

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  26. Fabulous - I don't like tuna but even I think this looks appetising!

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  27. You have done this so neatly! :o Well done you! Oh and I have an award waiting for you on my blog :)

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  28. I didn't like it. Sorry

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